SeabirdingAtlanticOcean

....Soon a spectacular island appeared in view - we could see the snow-covered mountains of South Georgia ahead. A Snow Petrel flying alongside the ship was a fitting welcome. Four species of penguins were feeding in the bay - King, Macaroni, Gentoo and Chinstrap.

....South Georgia Shags and Antarctic Terns were at another part of the bay. The terns were so different to those at Tristan da Cunha. Here, small and grey, rather than large and white as at Tristan. The Antarctic Terns need reviewing and a split is surely on the cards.

....This whaling station took a total of 175,250 whales...unbelievable slaughter...and this only one of many that operated around the Antarctic region.

....we were experiencing our first real South Atlantic weather. There was a strong gale, Force 9, with some waves at thirty-five feet high. Some wind gusts were 55 knots, into Force 10, Beaufort. The ship stayed about four mile offshore. Indeed we were virtually stationary, and at times were going backwards!

....the sea was as confused as we were. At one point Force 10, gusting to Force 11, classed as ‘violent storm’. Wind speeds were up to 60 knots together with horizontal snow showers. The birds had no problems, even seeming to relish the weather as albatrosses, prions and petrels handled the wind effortlessly.

....On the decks birds were in various corners and cubbyholes trying to keep out of the strong wind. Some had come onto the ship during the gale or attracted by the ship's lights during the night. An Antarctic Prion was badly damaged and soon became food for a Giant Petrel. There were at least five birds alive - three diving-petrels (one in a lifeboat, two under a bench), an Antarctic Prion, and a very wet Blue Petrel. Two South Georgia Diving-Petrels were unfortunately dead.

....Salisbury Plain. The zodiacs were launched and we were in for a real adventure. In front of us we saw thousands upon thousands of King Penguins and along the beach lay many Elephant and Fur Seals.

....Trains of penguins were walking and tobogganing to and from the colony. Brown chicks, in various stages of growth, were gathered in crèches with many calling to the returning adults. Adults were trumpeting and pair bonding with bills pointing skywards. The colony could be seen to extend high up the valley between the mountains.

....ashore to Albatross Island. At the beach our first South Georgia Pipit flew over calling. The Fur Seals here were in large numbers and we passed them cautiously to begin the walk uphill. In front of us were two nests of Wandering Albatrosses, both with very large chicks. They were full-grown and beginning to get the first feathers yet down was still on the head and parts of the body. These were huge birds.

....The second site, twenty minutes away, had four young albatrosses and some Southern Giant Petrels sitting on nests.

....knocked on my door with a box; inside another bird had been found on the deck. This one was a Common Diving-Petrel and it looked in a bad way with stained plumage and eyes half-closed. I bathed and cleaned the bird and put it into a box in a warm room. Later it started preening itself and had brightened up. At dusk I released this one (timed so that the Giant Petrels trailing us at the wake would not take it) to see it fly away at speed. A 'good news story'.

....Elsehul was stunning. Macaroni Penguins had a rookery along a slope where Light-mantled and Grey-headed Albatrosses were nesting. Dozens of albatrosses were in the sky at any one time, and the mournful calls of Light-mantled Albatrosses echoed from the gullies.

....an amazing Leopard Seal. This species is more commonly encountered within the Antarctic yet even there can be difficult to find. This eight-foot animal kept approaching the zodiac and swimming around and under it. The huge reptile-like head poking from the water to look at us from five feet! It seemed to be particularly interested in the turbulence from the propeller, a tailor-made Jacuzzi.

....set sail for the Falkland Islands, which was to take nearly three days. To our port the northern tip of South Georgia was a magnificent sight with its mountain peaks all showing, and the island covered in snow. The albatrosses and petrels were escorting us away from their land.

....The bridge said we had passed about 200 icebergs through the night, a high number for our latitude.

....surprise was finding Atlantic Petrels appearing in good numbers, as the range of this bird is poorly documented. More than twenty were counted in three hours. A distant Brown Skua could have been either the South Georgia or the Falkland's race. Grey-headed Albatrosses were still with us at the stern, as was an occasional Southern Fulmar.

....Berkeley Sound, East Falklands. We were taken into the shoreline. Two close Commerson's Dolphins were startling in their black and white contrasting colours, and showed their unique large blunt dorsal fins.

....many new birds for us here, the birds of the Falkland Islands. Rock Shags were common, Imperial less so but still there were dozens of these also. The penguin colonies on the slopes included Magellanic Penguin, our sixth penguin species of the trip. Rockhopper was here also and this may be number seven, if moseleyi is split as I predict!

....Stanley. We docked....walked the promenade where Ruddy-headed Geese mixed with Upland and Kelp Geese and Long-tailed Meadowlarks fed on the lawns. The Falkland Steamer Ducks were as close as twenty feet as they fed in the shallows.

....to Gypsy Cove. The coastal path had a few Magellanic Penguins at their burrow entrances and Rock Shags were on the cliff ledges.... found Black-chinned Siskin, Red-tailed Meadowlarks, Correndera Pipits and a dazzling Rufous-chested Dotterel in breeding plumage. Also we tracked down Magellanic Oystercatchers on the beach.

....On returning to the quay I found a juvenile Black-crowned Night Heron and a Crested Duck. Also there were a few South American Sea Lions lounging on buoys in the harbour.





		Antarctic Prion, one of many birds to come aboard 31 October

	CONTINUED FROM PAGE 3

Friday 1 November ....Soon a spectacular island appeared in view - we could see the snow-covered mountains of South Georgia ahead. A Snow Petrel flying alongside the ship was a fitting welcome. Four species of penguins were feeding in the bay - King, Macaroni, Gentoo and Chinstrap. ....South Georgia Shags and Antarctic Terns were at another part of the bay. The terns were so different to those at Tristan da Cunha. Here, small and grey, rather than large and white as at Tristan. The Antarctic Terns need reviewing and a split is surely on the cards. ....This whaling station took a total of 175,250 whales...unbelievable slaughter...and this only one of many that operated around the Antarctic region. Saturday 2 November ....we were experiencing our first real South Atlantic weather. There was a strong gale, Force 9, with some waves at thirty-five feet high. Some wind gusts were 55 knots, into Force 10, Beaufort. The ship stayed about four mile offshore. Indeed we were virtually stationary, and at times were going backwards! Sunday 3 November ....the sea was as confused as we were. At one point Force 10, gusting to Force 11, classed as ‘violent storm’. Wind speeds were up to 60 knots together with horizontal snow showers. The birds had no problems, even seeming to relish the weather as albatrosses, prions and petrels handled the wind effortlessly. ....On the decks birds were in various corners and cubbyholes trying to keep out of the strong wind. Some had come onto the ship during the gale or attracted by the ship's lights during the night. An Antarctic Prion was badly damaged and soon became food for a Giant Petrel. There were at least five birds alive - three diving-petrels (one in a lifeboat, two under a bench), an Antarctic Prion, and a very wet Blue Petrel. Two South Georgia Diving-Petrels were unfortunately dead. ....Salisbury Plain. The zodiacs were launched and we were in for a real adventure. In front of us we saw thousands upon thousands of King Penguins and along the beach lay many Elephant and Fur Seals. ....Trains of penguins were walking and tobogganing to and from the colony. Brown chicks, in various stages of growth, were gathered in crèches with many calling to the returning adults. Adults were trumpeting and pair bonding with bills pointing skywards. The colony could be seen to extend high up the valley between the mountains. Monday 4 November ....ashore to Albatross Island. At the beach our first South Georgia Pipit flew over calling. The Fur Seals here were in large numbers and we passed them cautiously to begin the walk uphill. In front of us were two nests of Wandering Albatrosses, both with very large chicks. They were full-grown and beginning to get the first feathers yet down was still on the head and parts of the body. These were huge birds. ....The second site, twenty minutes away, had four young albatrosses and some Southern Giant Petrels sitting on nests. ....knocked on my door with a box; inside another bird had been found on the deck. This one was a Common Diving-Petrel and it looked in a bad way with stained plumage and eyes half-closed. I bathed and cleaned the bird and put it into a box in a warm room. Later it started preening itself and had brightened up. At dusk I released this one (timed so that the Giant Petrels trailing us at the wake would not take it) to see it fly away at speed. A 'good news story'. ....Elsehul was stunning. Macaroni Penguins had a rookery along a slope where Light-mantled and Grey-headed Albatrosses were nesting. Dozens of albatrosses were in the sky at any one time, and the mournful calls of Light-mantled Albatrosses echoed from the gullies. ....an amazing Leopard Seal. This species is more commonly encountered within the Antarctic yet even there can be difficult to find. This eight-foot animal kept approaching the zodiac and swimming around and under it. The huge reptile-like head poking from the water to look at us from five feet! It seemed to be particularly interested in the turbulence from the propeller, a tailor-made Jacuzzi. ....set sail for the Falkland Islands, which was to take nearly three days. To our port the northern tip of South Georgia was a magnificent sight with its mountain peaks all showing, and the island covered in snow. The albatrosses and petrels were escorting us away from their land. Tuesday 5 November ....The bridge said we had passed about 200 icebergs through the night, a high number for our latitude. ....we caught sight of a few Black-bellied Storm-Petrels Wednesday 6 November ....surprise was finding Atlantic Petrels appearing in good numbers, as the range of this bird is poorly documented. More than twenty were counted in three hours. A distant Brown Skua could have been either the South Georgia or the Falkland's race. Grey-headed Albatrosses were still with us at the stern, as was an occasional Southern Fulmar. Thursday 7 November ....Berkeley Sound, East Falklands. We were taken into the shoreline. Two close Commerson's Dolphins were startling in their black and white contrasting colours, and showed their unique large blunt dorsal fins. ....many new birds for us here, the birds of the Falkland Islands. Rock Shags were common, Imperial less so but still there were dozens of these also. The penguin colonies on the slopes included Magellanic Penguin, our sixth penguin species of the trip. Rockhopper was here also and this may be number seven, if moseleyi is split as I predict! ....Stanley. We docked....walked the promenade where Ruddy-headed Geese mixed with Upland and Kelp Geese and Long-tailed Meadowlarks fed on the lawns. The Falkland Steamer Ducks were as close as twenty feet as they fed in the shallows. ....to Gypsy Cove. The coastal path had a few Magellanic Penguins at their burrow entrances and Rock Shags were on the cliff ledges.... found Black-chinned Siskin, Red-tailed Meadowlarks, Correndera Pipits and a dazzling Rufous-chested Dotterel in breeding plumage. Also we tracked down Magellanic Oystercatchers on the beach. ....On returning to the quay I found a juvenile Black-crowned Night Heron and a Crested Duck. Also there were a few South American Sea Lions lounging on buoys in the harbour. Friday 8 November ....Disembarkation Click to continue to Page 5 - bird checklist for each sector