Left - Murphy's Petrel
Continued from Page 3
….Ashore we were given the first great news. Gerald had found Bristle-thighed Curlew. At last, after all the effort we were rewarded with fine scope-views. We could see the golden-buff neck, the Whimbrel-like crown. There was a second bird; though later the estimate may have been as many as six along this beach. The call, still 'cur-lee' was noticeably softer and sweeter than our European birds. Bristle-thighed is rare in a world context - difficult to find on the breeding grounds in Alaska and I was hoping we would see them, maybe in the Marquesas or Tuamotus to the north. Finally we had caught up with this species. Later, another bird was seen through the scope and we could even observe the whitish 'bristles', pointing downwards, behind the feathered thigh.
….In the top of a coconut tree our first Stephen's Lorikeet was feeding on the blossom. This colourful parrot is endemic to Henderson and we found it to be common. Individuals, pairs, and small groups of four or five were easily picked out as they regularly called when flying.
….The great prize on the island is an endemic crake, Henderson Island Crake. I had heard that the bird favours the undergrowth and scrub beneath the coconuts and so we started to bush walk. The vegetation, just off the beach, was thick to begin with and hidden coconuts underfoot made progress slow. We had just reached the right habitat when the ship's horn sounded. This is only blasted for urgent announcement. I spoke on the handheld radio to be told to return to the beach and that the landing was to be called-off! Apparently the landings were becoming more difficult and the ship had stopped the disembarkation. After initial confusion the Chief Mate agreed those ashore could stay, whilst those aboard would cruise around the island. We were lucky to get ashore, and to be able to continue searching out the crake. It was a good job that we were first off this morning!
….We returned into the coconut area. In places there was fallen fruit and dead palm fronds underfoot. It became easier as we moved through to the eastern end. We had formed a broad line intentionally with myself 'squeeking' which is said to attract the bird as it is known to be bold and inquisitive. After about an hour Nicholas called that one had come to his feet. As we moved in closer, there was this amazing bird - it was within two feet of us. Tiny, all black with bright red eyes and legs, it was peering at us! We stayed with it for some minutes, it was not concerned.
….Along the beach we found more lorikeets with their bright red underparts, green upperparts and yellow tails - a number were seen flying along a bluff. Seabirds included Masked, Brown and Red-footed Boobies, White Terns galore and ever-watchful frigatebirds gliding overhead. This was a magical place!
….Leaving Henderson we started sailing towards our next island, Ducie. Seawatching before dusk was first-class and we added more Henderson Petrels. Perran, Lorraine and myself saw a small group of five or six whales. They were at about four miles distance and were certainly Ziphiids, members of the beaked whale family. They were extremely light in colour, and of ‘medium’ size (about 20-25 feet) but we lost them to view too soon.
….landing at Ducie Island tomorrow, and the amazing spectacle of seabirds awaiting us there.
Sunday 9 November
Early morning, and Ducie Island was on the horizon. On the approach seabirds were passing the ship in profusion. This was to be a fantastic landing!
….I had arranged that our group were to be the first again to land. The zodiac went through a gap in the coral reef, and close to the beach we waded ashore. Soon we were walking along the coral beach. Birds were everywhere. The principal species was the Murphy's Petrel. There were thousands. The young could be seen in the Tournefortia, mainly keeping in the shade and out of the sun. The Murphy's were very easy to photograph, many birds just looking up at us as we strolled by. It was astonishing to realise that very little is known about this species, yet here we were, within the most important breeding colony. Many of the world's Pterodroma genus nest in tunnels or behind boulders, they are predated heavily by cats and rats, yet here on this remote atoll we could see them in the open and nesting on the sand and coral.
….The group had not seen Christmas Shearwater well. I was surprised to find four or five under the bushes. The long bill and different 'tubes' (nostrils) were pointed out. These birds breed in the austral winter so would be just visiting the island, another indicator that here they had no enemies.
….Our walk took us to a path that went through the vegetation to the inner lagoon. This had been cut years ago by World Discoverer staff. We had to be vigilant as adult birds and chicks were all around and could easily be trodden on. We continued along the lagoon edge, passing Masked Boobies and Brown Noddies at nests, many with eggs. Thousands of Sooty Terns lifted to the sky as we drew nearer to them. Their call, giving them their everyday name of ‘Wide-awake’ became a cacophony as we pushed onwards, increasing our pace, to the other side.
….We walked around the western end of the atoll. There were birds flying continuously over the vegetation. Phoenix Petrels were here but scarce; we saw only four or five of this gad-fly petrel. At the furthest end were the Kermadec Petrels. These were birds of the pale morph. The key I.D feature, the white primary shafts, often so apparent in flight, was difficult to see when the bird was on the ground and the wings folded.
....….We headed back towards the landing station. It had been a great walk, though longer than originally intended. For a seabird fanatic like myself this island was wonderful and rates as probably the top seabird site I have visited.
….The ship set sail. We were underway; next stop Easter Island in two-and-half days. I spent most of the afternoon seawatching from the observation deck overlooking the bow. Most of the group came and went periodically during the afternoon, in between the lectures and afternoon tea. Seabirds, as expected, were the Murphy's Petrels, and we added another Kermadec and a few more Phoenix Petrels. Small parties of Christmas Shearwaters could be seen, this time the field features noted.
….There was an unexpected birding surprise in store. We started encountering small Pterodroma petrels. They were certainly belonging to the sub-genus ‘Cookilaria’. First views eliminated the species with hoods or caps, like Collared, even Stejneger's. The underwing eliminated Black-winged. These had to be Cook's or Masatierra (also called De Filippi's) Petrels. We saw more than twenty-five, but seeing the tail smudge or outer-tail feathers to clinch the species (re Roberson) was impossible. The entire ranges of both these species is really not known. Could these birds be Cook's coming further east and south than documented in the literature, or Masatierra coming west from the Humboldt Current? It was exasperating that we hadn’t cracked this one when the light was fading. Will we see more tomorrow after travelling so much further east?
….Ducie Island - for birding, the best landing and the highlight of the tour?
Left - Murphy's Petrel chick
